Intro to Podere La Fonte

May 21- May 23, 2011

Defining Peschici is a challenge for me, but Radicondoli comes easy.

Podere La Fonte is our base of operations. It is a short (a little steep) walk up to the village of Radicondoli. The road is stable and even for an old fart like me it is not difficult. Radicondoli has a population of 700 and is situated on a hill in the Tuscan countryside. At night you can see the lights of Volterra and San Gimignano. Florence is one hour away and Siena just forty minutes’ drive thru the back country of Tuscany. More important to me it is in close proximity to the La Cinta Senese. More on that later.

The agriturisimo  is hosted by Emanuela and Marco. Accommodations are rustic, comfortable, authentic Tuscan country life amid olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees. It is a little early in the season, but there are the beginnings of a substantial garden.  Our apartment is self-catering with a small stove, sink and small refrigerator. Other types of rooms are are available see their website at www.poderelafonte.com.

During our stay the cherries were ripening and the fava beans are ready. These fresh perfect delicacies have been added to vitello(veal)from the butcher in the village and a little pasta. Marco produces a tasty, organic, Vino Rosso Toscano and the olive oil from the farm is very good. What more could anyone ask.

This is a good base for exploration if you are interested in being away from the cities. A car is absolutely needed, but the driving is not difficult.

Food and drink reviews next, and la Cinta Senese.

Fratelli Uricuolo

Fratelli Urciuolo is located in Forino, Avellino, Campania ,Italy.  The Italian Wines 2011 listed the 2006 Taurasi with three red glasses and noted it as a particularly good value.

We visited the winery on May 13, 2011. They have a new tasting room under construction and we were told it would be open in a couple of weeks. There is good signage and the location is on a main road and easy to locate.

The estate is managed by brothers Ciro and Antonello Urciuolo. They are diligent in providing top quality with good prices. In addition to the Taurasi, they produce Fiano di Avellino Greco di Tufo, Aglianico and Falanghina. We purchased Taurasi and Aglianico.

Taurasi comes from the Aglianico grape. The grape macerates for 10-15 days then is pressed softly, aged in oak 24-25 months and then held in the bottle for 10-12 months before release. The finished wine is very drinkable now but has the potential for extended aging. A nose of forest floor toward a meaty balsamic sensation, then fruity sweetness with balanced tannins and a nice soft finish.

This wine has along with the Cantina del Barone Fiano di Avellino has been the lifeblood of our travels. The Urciuolo is imported and according to the brothers is distributed across the United States.

Let us know if you find it. In Italy the price is 15 euro, about  22.00 US.

Burratta

May 16, 2011

As I write this the sun is coming out after nearly 2 days of rain. We are sitting on the balcony of the apartment looking over the Adriatic Sea. Today is not so bad, a little rainy and windy.

Yesterday we traveled to Monte Sant’ Angelo, (another post) it was like being in a Midwest thunderstorm all day. I have never seen so many inside out umbrellas in my entire life.

As we planned this trip to Italy I made a list of foods and wines indigenous to Puglia and a goal to have each one touch my palate.

On the list is/was Burrata. Not the quasi barrata we see in San Diego. Real fresh Pugliese Burrata. This is one of the many special products that is almost impossible to duplicate in the United States due to milk processing regulations and the environment the animals that make the milk live.

You see there is terroir with milk as there is with wine. What goes in comes out. It sort of looks like fresh mozzarella but is much softer to the touch. When you cut the cheese the interior spills out, revealing soft, curd and fresh cream. If you're a lover of mozzarella or ricotta this cheese is what you want.

Burrata is not mozzarella. Burrata is its own thing entirely, and you'll know this the second you taste it.
The method used to make burrata is the same as mozzarella differing only in the stretching technique used and the fact that burrata has a filling, thick, spreadable strings of cream, with a slightly sour finish.

Buffalo milk gives the cheese a particular tanginess. Rennet (an enzyme) is added to warm milk to make the milk coagulate and separate into curds and whey. The curds solidify into blocks and they are then shredded into small pieces and immersed in very hot water. The heavy curds fall to the bottom and form a mass that is lifted out, turned, and kneaded using a wooden paddle. At this point, the process becomes an art form, as the cheese maker must know instinctively when to stop the pulling or stretching. For burrata, the still hot cheese is stretched into 3-inch rectangles that are then filled with leftover strands of mozzarella (straciatella) that have been left to soak in fresh cream from the whey. After it is filled with the straciatella and some of the clinging cream, the burrata is closed with a topknot. Finally, the burrata is brined briefly to flavor it.

For breakfast: burrata, bread, espresso and blood orange juice. For lunch: burrata thickly spread on fresh local bread, 2006 Taurasi Fratelli Urciulo DOCG, salami Napoletano, olives. Dinner antipasti: burrata, olives, fresh grilled local salsicce (sausage).

One of the exquisite foods of rustic relatively unknown “heel of the boot”  Puglia.

Fruttivendolo mobile

It is a glorious day in Peschici. There are no clouds In the sky, a gentle breeze flowing off a calm Adriatic. We are sitting on the patio overlooking the sea having coffee and biscuits. This will be one fine day to sit back, soak in this little town and read.

Suddenly there is a piercing announcement echoing down the narrow streets. At first, having seen the politico in Naples, we thought it was a rally of some sort. The loud amplified voice would go on for several minutes and then be silent. You could tell it was moving, getting louder and then softening as if changing direction. Because of the echo it was difficult to understand what the topic was. Then as the source got closer we heard Amerika, it must be some sort of political announcement. Again closer, more clear, was that fragole? Then pomodore?  It was a fruttivendolo mobile (fruit vendor) traveling the streets. He was calling to all of the women with children, Americans, everyone we are bringing the produce to you.

The nonne below our patio came out of their houses with sacks and baskets, they would disappear around the corner and return carrying the bulging bags and baskets.

Cannot resist this opportunity, we get out onto the street and the hawker is silent. Hope we can find him. The streets of Peschici go in every direction with no apparent logic. We exit the centro storico and less than a block away there are people surrounding the little truck, cart, van vehicle. He has had a good day the truck is nearly bare. But the apricots, melon and fragole are really good and fresh. Lunch.

Tenuta Monte Laura

As frequent travelers to Italy we have stayed in all types of lodging in many regions. The experience at Tenuta Monte Laura in Forino, Avellino, Campania was one of the best. Lello and Flavia along with their son and daughter are gracious hosts. The beauty of the property dotted with wonderful specimens of pine and fir with accents of exotic palm is luscious and regal. Great chestnut groves surround the property. The photos on the website are not manipulated, what you see is what you get. The majestic building has spacious, clean and comfortable rooms that provide a perfect base for exploring the riches of this land. Alone this would be a reason to stay here.

Then you add the food and wine. Lello  is a  certified member of the Italian Sommelier Association and Flavia is a recognized member of the Federation of Italian Cooks. Both are advocates of the Slow Food organization that originated in Italy. Lello arranged for us to visit Cantina del Barone a small family owned winery that specializes in Fiano di Avellino the local varietal recognized as DOCG, then a private tasting and a walk in the vineyard with the sons of the family, perfetto.

The evening meals are fixed menu reflecting the countryside. What is available or in season is what appears on the plate. We were given a choice of eating family style with the other guests and family or at a single table, we chose family style.

Our first evening meal was cured meat, cheese, pasta (all homemade) and thinly sliced grilled pork with salad. Local wine, great food, good conversation, Italy personified. Everything was simple, clean and absolutely delicious.

Just when we thought it could not get better, dinner #2. We had spent some time talking about food and Flavia went out of her way to prepare some dishes that were typical but probably reserved for special occasions, and to Americans not usual. Antipasti we named, pasta figole alla Forino, homemade pasta with black beans and pork. Pasta with rabbit broth and tomato. Braised rabbit with an egg and cheese mixture stuffed under the skin and braised with tomatoes. I cannot describe how good this is. Sheep liver wrapped in casings and roasted and braised with a little tomato. These dishes are in the dreams of food lovers. A great experience on all levels, la vita vera Italiana (the real Italian life).