Porchetta San Diego Style

It was June 2006 when I discovered Porchetta. More precisely Porchetta in the style of Panzano, Chianti, Tuscany, Italy. More specifically in the manner of Dario Cecchini.

We were staying in a rented house south of Firenze near Montespertoli. It was great location for our way of travel. Each day we could make a drive to a local market, pick up the freshest of the fresh, then return and cook dinner with our bounty.

Antica Macelleria Antica Cecchini was on our radar and fortunately it was open on Sunday market day, perfetto! In 2006 Dario Cecchini was known to Italian Slow Foodies, soon after our visit he and the macelleria were featured everywhere, for good reason.

It was at Antica Macelleria Cecchini this most delectable pork creation was featured. It became my goal to recreate and share this with everyone I knew. Unfortunately no pictures were taken of the entire Porchetta, but here is a picture of the slice we took back for lunch.

The quest began to recreate this wonderful, moist, flavorful pork delight in San Diego, California.

Pictures were shared with my butcher at Iowa Meat Farms and many hours searching the internet to no avail. Now remember, this was 5 years ago. Today Porchetta restaurants are coming up everywhere. There has even been a feature article on Food Channel. But when I was looking, nothing! Until, page 251 of Bill Bufords HEAT. The secret was revealed.

Where am I going to get the torso, skin on, of a 300 pound pig? (that has been properly inspected). And where will this wonderful delicacy be roasted?

Compromise.

An 80 pound suckling pig.

Deboned.

Ready to roast.

Ready to eat!

Porchetta di Panzano?

Porchetta di San Diego?

Comment if you have any questions. Or email ken@gusti-giusti.com.

Why Peschici

Everyone asks us “How did you decide on Peschici?”

We had a couple of business requirements for this trip and one of them was to complete the documents for my Italian citizenship. That required a trip to Atripalda, Avellino, Campania, Italy and visit with the local registrar. The question was where to we go from there.Two years ago our travels had taken us to Sui Dui Golfi on the Sorrento peninsula, in Atripalda we were only 164 kilometers (about 2 hours) from the Adriatic and we wanted to explore Puglia, go east young man.

A second part of business was to visit Radicondili and see the home of Il Campo cooking school in Tuscany, so driving time for the 3rd leg of our trip was a consideration.

Peschici is a town on the spur of the Italian boot, the Gargano Promontory. It is situated on the eastern most tip of the peninsula nestled into the Foresta Umbra. On the map it looked like a good place to use as a base to visit Monte Sant’Angelo (the grotto of Archangel Michael) and the Padre Pio shrine in San Giovanni Rotondo Padre Pio. Then take a longer day trip south to Castel del Monte, Alberobello (to see the Trulli).

It looked good on the map, and the town is beautiful, the drive into and out of Peschici has some spectacular views, but it is challenging. Generally driving the Italian countryside and smaller towns does not concern me, but the blind curves and switchbacks here more than doubled driving time compared to distance. Then thinking about the drive made each excursion and return a major effort. This reduced our travels, but we did discover da Celestina Ristorante, and if you like the beach, see the pictures on the Peschici post.

Emanuela la Podere La Fonte Torta

The planning of this trip actually began in March 2011. Marlane Miriello shared this recipe for Torta Pasqualina with me so it could be prepared for the membership of the House of Italy in Balboa Park San Diego, California. The idea was to demonstrate the authentic food being prepared and served in the Il Campo cooking school.

What it did for me was add Radicondili to my list of places to go in Tuscany. And to make the experience even more cohesive, Emanuela at Podere La Fonte where we stayed is the guest instructor that originated this recipe and taught it during one of the week long courses, perfetto.

                             Torta Pasqualina

For the filling:

1 ½         pounds                   fresh spinach or swiss chard leaves -- washed thoroughly

1              pound                    ricotta cheese (ideally made from fresh
½             cup                         finely grated parmesan cheese
2                                             eggs + 1 egg white
 ¼            tsp.                         ground nutmeg
                                               salt and pepper to taste
2              tblsp.                     whole fennel seeds

 For the crust:

3              cups                       whole wheat or white all-purpose flour
½             cup                         olive oil
1              pinch                     salt
Water or ricotta as desired -- enough to blend the dough

Pre heat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit .. 176 celcius

Preparing the crust:

Place the flour and salt in a food processor.
Turn on the food processor and slowly add the olive oil. Blend until the mixture becomes well-blended and mealy.

Add either the water or ricotta, with the food processor on, one

tablespoon at a time until the dough becomes smooth and elastic.

Remove from food processor and place in a covered bowl for at least thirty minutes.

Roll out the dough on a floured marble slab or pastry board until it is very large, approximately 20" square.

Assembling the tart:

Spoon the filling into the center of the pastry sheet, spreading it out over approximately a 12 X 15" area in the center of the crust.

Fold the wide edges over the filling.  Paint the top of the crust with and egg wash made of egg white and a few drops of water.

Sprinkle 1-2 tbsp. fennel seeds over the top. Bake in the center of a 350 degree oven for approximately one hour, or until golden brown.

Remove from oven, let it cool slightly before serving. Torta Pasqualina is also good served at room temperature or cold.

Cinta Senese

From the first day of planning this trip a visit with Marlane Miriello in Radicondoli, Siena, Tuscany was on the agenda. Marlane is a founder of Il Campo a cooking school based in Radicondoli. We have traveled to Tuscany many times but never in this area. Marlane was kind enough to send us to the village of  Scorgiano, Monteriggioni, Siena, Tuscany to find one of the things on my list, Cinta Senese.

This is the area where Cinta Senese , THE heirloom pork breed of Tuscany, has been reborn. There is a fresco by Ambrogio Lorenzetti called "Effects of Good Government - The well-governed country" in the Palazzo Comunale di Siena, dating back to 1338 depicting the Cinta Senese. The breed is recognized by a dark coat with a white band that covers the front legs and encircles the chest, shoulders and over the back, Cinta (belted) Siena (senese). When you see the Cinta Senese beside the wild boar of Tuscany many of the characteristics remain, even after many genetic changes.

The hills covered with oak forests, providing ample supplies of acorns were the perfect environment for these foraging animals. In fact today, the Cinta Senese must be provided a large open field combined with forest to thrive. If given a choice of human provided grains or foraging the will chose the latter.

Up until the 1950’s nearly every family in the area would raise the breed for fresh meats and salumi. Then came the introduction of the “large white”.  Cross breeding with the Cinta Senese produced an animal that would be ready for market in six months and full maturity in 1 year, while the Cinta Senese took at least a year and up to 2 years to reach maximum weights. This cross breed matured faster and thrived in confinement. By the 1990’s the pure Cinta Senese was almost extinct.

In the late 1990’s a group of farmers (The Consortium of Cinta Senese) decided to purchase and maintain breeding boars with the sole purpose of maintaining the breed. Their efforts are not complete, but there have been great strides in removing the Cinta Senese from the list of endangered species.

Why is so much space dedicated to this one topic? For those that know me, I have consumed my share of pork. It is a travesty what American pork producers have done to the animal in search of the politically correct dining product. In reality we have created a bigger problem than was resolved.

The Cinta is bred and raised in wild or semi-wild, large enclosed forests. They consume natural foods of acorn tubers and other organic materials. This produces a red flesh with a high density of unsaturated fats, including omega 3’s and omega 6. The fat is rich in oleic acid (helps reduce cholesterol). The flavor (fat) is less saturated and allows the smell to emit.

We had the pleasure of tasting this wonderful product at a restaurant directly across the road from the producer, L’Astronave (further description to follow). Cinta Finocchiona, Cinta Coppa, Cinta pork steak.

For those that know me, I have eaten my share of porchetta, pork chops, salumi, pastas with pork ragu in my time, including the Mangalitsa, this is the best pork that has passed these lips ever!!!!

Intro to Podere La Fonte

May 21- May 23, 2011

Defining Peschici is a challenge for me, but Radicondoli comes easy.

Podere La Fonte is our base of operations. It is a short (a little steep) walk up to the village of Radicondoli. The road is stable and even for an old fart like me it is not difficult. Radicondoli has a population of 700 and is situated on a hill in the Tuscan countryside. At night you can see the lights of Volterra and San Gimignano. Florence is one hour away and Siena just forty minutes’ drive thru the back country of Tuscany. More important to me it is in close proximity to the La Cinta Senese. More on that later.

The agriturisimo  is hosted by Emanuela and Marco. Accommodations are rustic, comfortable, authentic Tuscan country life amid olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees. It is a little early in the season, but there are the beginnings of a substantial garden.  Our apartment is self-catering with a small stove, sink and small refrigerator. Other types of rooms are are available see their website at www.poderelafonte.com.

During our stay the cherries were ripening and the fava beans are ready. These fresh perfect delicacies have been added to vitello(veal)from the butcher in the village and a little pasta. Marco produces a tasty, organic, Vino Rosso Toscano and the olive oil from the farm is very good. What more could anyone ask.

This is a good base for exploration if you are interested in being away from the cities. A car is absolutely needed, but the driving is not difficult.

Food and drink reviews next, and la Cinta Senese.

Fratelli Uricuolo

Fratelli Urciuolo is located in Forino, Avellino, Campania ,Italy.  The Italian Wines 2011 listed the 2006 Taurasi with three red glasses and noted it as a particularly good value.

We visited the winery on May 13, 2011. They have a new tasting room under construction and we were told it would be open in a couple of weeks. There is good signage and the location is on a main road and easy to locate.

The estate is managed by brothers Ciro and Antonello Urciuolo. They are diligent in providing top quality with good prices. In addition to the Taurasi, they produce Fiano di Avellino Greco di Tufo, Aglianico and Falanghina. We purchased Taurasi and Aglianico.

Taurasi comes from the Aglianico grape. The grape macerates for 10-15 days then is pressed softly, aged in oak 24-25 months and then held in the bottle for 10-12 months before release. The finished wine is very drinkable now but has the potential for extended aging. A nose of forest floor toward a meaty balsamic sensation, then fruity sweetness with balanced tannins and a nice soft finish.

This wine has along with the Cantina del Barone Fiano di Avellino has been the lifeblood of our travels. The Urciuolo is imported and according to the brothers is distributed across the United States.

Let us know if you find it. In Italy the price is 15 euro, about  22.00 US.

Burratta

May 16, 2011

As I write this the sun is coming out after nearly 2 days of rain. We are sitting on the balcony of the apartment looking over the Adriatic Sea. Today is not so bad, a little rainy and windy.

Yesterday we traveled to Monte Sant’ Angelo, (another post) it was like being in a Midwest thunderstorm all day. I have never seen so many inside out umbrellas in my entire life.

As we planned this trip to Italy I made a list of foods and wines indigenous to Puglia and a goal to have each one touch my palate.

On the list is/was Burrata. Not the quasi barrata we see in San Diego. Real fresh Pugliese Burrata. This is one of the many special products that is almost impossible to duplicate in the United States due to milk processing regulations and the environment the animals that make the milk live.

You see there is terroir with milk as there is with wine. What goes in comes out. It sort of looks like fresh mozzarella but is much softer to the touch. When you cut the cheese the interior spills out, revealing soft, curd and fresh cream. If you're a lover of mozzarella or ricotta this cheese is what you want.

Burrata is not mozzarella. Burrata is its own thing entirely, and you'll know this the second you taste it.
The method used to make burrata is the same as mozzarella differing only in the stretching technique used and the fact that burrata has a filling, thick, spreadable strings of cream, with a slightly sour finish.

Buffalo milk gives the cheese a particular tanginess. Rennet (an enzyme) is added to warm milk to make the milk coagulate and separate into curds and whey. The curds solidify into blocks and they are then shredded into small pieces and immersed in very hot water. The heavy curds fall to the bottom and form a mass that is lifted out, turned, and kneaded using a wooden paddle. At this point, the process becomes an art form, as the cheese maker must know instinctively when to stop the pulling or stretching. For burrata, the still hot cheese is stretched into 3-inch rectangles that are then filled with leftover strands of mozzarella (straciatella) that have been left to soak in fresh cream from the whey. After it is filled with the straciatella and some of the clinging cream, the burrata is closed with a topknot. Finally, the burrata is brined briefly to flavor it.

For breakfast: burrata, bread, espresso and blood orange juice. For lunch: burrata thickly spread on fresh local bread, 2006 Taurasi Fratelli Urciulo DOCG, salami Napoletano, olives. Dinner antipasti: burrata, olives, fresh grilled local salsicce (sausage).

One of the exquisite foods of rustic relatively unknown “heel of the boot”  Puglia.

Fruttivendolo mobile

It is a glorious day in Peschici. There are no clouds In the sky, a gentle breeze flowing off a calm Adriatic. We are sitting on the patio overlooking the sea having coffee and biscuits. This will be one fine day to sit back, soak in this little town and read.

Suddenly there is a piercing announcement echoing down the narrow streets. At first, having seen the politico in Naples, we thought it was a rally of some sort. The loud amplified voice would go on for several minutes and then be silent. You could tell it was moving, getting louder and then softening as if changing direction. Because of the echo it was difficult to understand what the topic was. Then as the source got closer we heard Amerika, it must be some sort of political announcement. Again closer, more clear, was that fragole? Then pomodore?  It was a fruttivendolo mobile (fruit vendor) traveling the streets. He was calling to all of the women with children, Americans, everyone we are bringing the produce to you.

The nonne below our patio came out of their houses with sacks and baskets, they would disappear around the corner and return carrying the bulging bags and baskets.

Cannot resist this opportunity, we get out onto the street and the hawker is silent. Hope we can find him. The streets of Peschici go in every direction with no apparent logic. We exit the centro storico and less than a block away there are people surrounding the little truck, cart, van vehicle. He has had a good day the truck is nearly bare. But the apricots, melon and fragole are really good and fresh. Lunch.

Tenuta Monte Laura

As frequent travelers to Italy we have stayed in all types of lodging in many regions. The experience at Tenuta Monte Laura in Forino, Avellino, Campania was one of the best. Lello and Flavia along with their son and daughter are gracious hosts. The beauty of the property dotted with wonderful specimens of pine and fir with accents of exotic palm is luscious and regal. Great chestnut groves surround the property. The photos on the website are not manipulated, what you see is what you get. The majestic building has spacious, clean and comfortable rooms that provide a perfect base for exploring the riches of this land. Alone this would be a reason to stay here.

Then you add the food and wine. Lello  is a  certified member of the Italian Sommelier Association and Flavia is a recognized member of the Federation of Italian Cooks. Both are advocates of the Slow Food organization that originated in Italy. Lello arranged for us to visit Cantina del Barone a small family owned winery that specializes in Fiano di Avellino the local varietal recognized as DOCG, then a private tasting and a walk in the vineyard with the sons of the family, perfetto.

The evening meals are fixed menu reflecting the countryside. What is available or in season is what appears on the plate. We were given a choice of eating family style with the other guests and family or at a single table, we chose family style.

Our first evening meal was cured meat, cheese, pasta (all homemade) and thinly sliced grilled pork with salad. Local wine, great food, good conversation, Italy personified. Everything was simple, clean and absolutely delicious.

Just when we thought it could not get better, dinner #2. We had spent some time talking about food and Flavia went out of her way to prepare some dishes that were typical but probably reserved for special occasions, and to Americans not usual. Antipasti we named, pasta figole alla Forino, homemade pasta with black beans and pork. Pasta with rabbit broth and tomato. Braised rabbit with an egg and cheese mixture stuffed under the skin and braised with tomatoes. I cannot describe how good this is. Sheep liver wrapped in casings and roasted and braised with a little tomato. These dishes are in the dreams of food lovers. A great experience on all levels, la vita vera Italiana (the real Italian life).

Wine reviews

After many different approaches trying to keep track of the different wines tasted over the years the light bulb came on. Use a camera shot for the label, note the vineyard or producer then create a page with both personal and researched comments. Much easier than carrying an empty bottle around until you have a place and time to soak off the label (almost never works) and then keeping the label intact. And after the trip trying to remember all of the details.

This will allow us to post our discoveries during our upcoming trip to Campania and Puglia.

A primary source for searching specific wines will be Italian Wines 2011 by Gambero Rosso. This is the 25th edition, so there is a consistent approach and the information has been credible over the past 6 years I have been referring to it.